Blown away by windswept islands

The Greeks were inspired by the mythological god of the winds Aeolus when they named the archipelago that is located at the North of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Indeed, although this group of islands is also known as Lipari Group, after the largest island of Lipari, no name could suit any better this ancient and captivating volcanic arc of lands, than its original one – the Aeolian archipelago.

In 2000, the Aeolian archipelago which consists of the islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo, was designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. Although all of the islands possess dramatic features due to their volcanic origin, their contrasting characters make them ideal for island hoppers.

One can reach the Aeolian Islands by ferry and hydrofoil from various points in Sicily but also from Naples and Reggio Calabria. However Milazzo is the main departure point for the Aeolian Islands with several hydrofoils leaving daily throughout the year. Crossings take between 45mins to 3 hours depending on which island one is heading for.

Vulcano

Vulcano is the closest island to Milazzo. Besides its impressive name, this island will surely be remembered by whoever visits it for its mud baths and fumaroles but most of all for its pervading rotten-egg stink of sulphur.

The Fanghi di Vulcano are only a couple of minutes walk from the port and they consist of warm light-coloured mud which has for long been considered as an excellent treatment for rheumatic pains and skin diseases. However, if one dismisses the foul smell, anyone could enjoy some time rolling around in the mud. A natural spa situated just round the corner, where there are hot, bubbling springs in a small natural sea-water pool will quickly wash off any remaining traces of clay but surely not the smell of sulphur. On the other hand, for those who prefer a more chic environment, on this island one finds also beauty spas with thermal hydro-massage pools and a beauty centre.

Surely, it would be a pity if one does not try to experience the volcanic soul of this island. In fact, Vulcano offers distinct areas such as Black Sand beach with its dusky sand, or a climb to the crater of the still active volcano where one can enjoy stunning views. For those less adventurous, a drive out Capo Grillo, will provide awesome perspectives on Lipari and Salina, with Panarea, Stromboli and Filicudi off in the distance.

Lipari

Lipari is the largest island in the Aeolian archipelago and it is the only one with a sizeable town and a substantial year-round population. According to archaeological records which date back to 4000–2500 BC, it was here that the first Sicilians migrated.

Probably they were attracted by the presence of obsidian, a naturally occurring volcanic glass, which was widely used before the introduction of metals. Interestingly, obsidian from Lipari was also discovered in the Maltese archaeological context, and this confirms the widespread manufacture and commerce of these objects from this island.

Lipari is also a significant source for pumice, a lightweight volcanic rock, which was already being used as a form of concrete during Roman times. Indeed, pumice is still being extracted from the quarries on the island and while some visitors might regard the huge chunks eaten out of the landscape as an eyesore, others could consider the white background of this material as a beautiful backdrop to some bays such as that of Punta Castagna.

Although Lipari is not a very sophisticated place, tourists flock to it in huge masses, especially during summer. An island tour is recommended if one would like to visit some of the most interesting sites such as the village of Acquacalda, with its great beach of dark volcanic sand and a breathtaking view of Salina, the thermal springs of San Calogero, the historic Lipari castle, and the archaeological museum.

Certainly, Lipari’s best views can be enjoyed from the viewpoint known as Quattrocchi which is situated at 3km west of the town. Apart from the sensational coastal panorama, one could also get a glimpse of Vulcano, the neighbouring island.

Salina

Salina is the greenest island of the Aeolian archipelago. In ancient times it was famous for its salt mines but recently it is more popular for its starring role in the 1994 film ‘Il Postino’. Due to its dense vegetation, this island is ideal for hiking enthusiasts who can exploit this natural characteristic in order to savour the beauty of these areas such as Monte Fossa delle Felci.

A stroll along the street of the main port will reveal pretty boutiques and shops, together with a selection of 19^th century houses that were built by those who had made their fortune by selling the sweet Malvasia wine to the British. Unfortunately, at the end of the century, many of these entrepreneurs lost their fortunes and people started to leave the island in search of a better life. Yet recently, viticulture in the area has been revitalized and nowadays visitors can taste local wines at a number of vineyards on the island.

The story of Salina and particularly the period concerning emigration are vividly evoked in two tiny folk museums, the Museum of Emigration in Malfa and the Ethnographic Museum in Lingua.

Panarea

Panarea is the island for the hot, rich and famous and it is considered by most as the most beautiful of the Aeolian Islands. Hotels are generally pretty expensive and the majority of these are found in San Pietro together with bars, restaurants, and shops. Nonetheless, one can still find affordable rooms to rent in the quieter part of the village.

One can walk his way around the island in order to get to know it better and to visit some interesting sites such as the scant remains of a Bronze Age village on the south side of the island, or the fumaroles at Calcara which in the old days Panareans believed that it was an entrance to the underworld. Otherwise, one can rent a boat in order to explore the inlets on the wilder, uninhabited stretches of coastline that are inaccessible by land, or else join a boat trip in order to visit the offshore nearby islet of Basiluzzo.

Stromboli

The island of Stromboli is the farthest one on the eastern side of the Aeolian archipelago. It is the latest land to have emerged from the sea and it is characterized by Stromboli; the most active volcano in Europe.

Visitors seek out Stromboli right for the impressive presence of the volcano which can be observed from close range by joining a guided walk which takes about two hours. For those who are less fit or not so adventurous, a boat trip around to Sciara del Fuoco, will do the trick to observe Stromboli’s explosions from a greater distance. Many of these trips occur after dark, when the sensational fiery emissions are more visible.

Filicudi and Alicudi

These two islands lie at the furthest area of the western side of the Aeolian archipelago and they are best enjoyed on foot or by boat.

In Filicudi’s tiny fishing port of Pecorini a Mare, one can taste some of the best shells in the archipelago. Moreover, the island’s seabed is popular with divers for its number of ancient shipwrecks.

Alicudi is the most remote of all the islands and it has the smallest population of the archipelago. Ferries are infrequent and the island’s only mode of transport is on donkeys.

(This article was published in the Travel Section of The Sunday Times of Malta dated 13th July 2014)

Share on Facebook