A 10-Day Train Journey Through Italy, Austria, Czechia & Germany

Welcome to my first part of a five-part story covering our 10-day train Journey from Italy, through Austria and Czechia to Germany

As a writer, I’ve always been drawn to the lives of other storytellers and none more so than Agatha Christie. Her brilliance, her discipline, and the way her travels spilled into her novels continue to inspire me. She had long dreamed of travelling on the Orient Express, and when she at last boarded that legendary train, the experience gave birth to Murder on the Orient Express.

Introduction

Central Europe by Train

I too have often dreamt of that fabled train: its polished wood, gleaming brass, and the slow glide across borders into landscapes both familiar and strange. The original Orient Express is gone, but the yearning remains. Perhaps that longing is made stronger because, in the Maltese Islands where I live, there are no trains at all.

So this summer, my husband Jason and I set out to taste a 10-day holiday by trains, carrying us from one country to the next, with nothing but our backpacks and a sense of curiosity. We flew first into Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport and began our adventure on the ground: one day in Bologna (Italy) with side trips to Ferrara, Comacchio, and Dozza.

From there, the rails carried us onward to Innsbruck (Austria), where we stayed in Wilten; to České Budějovice (Czech Republic) for two days of exploration; then to Regensburg (Germany), and onwards the same day to Saal, where an abbey looking across the Danube became our home for two nights. On the eighth day, we travelled by train to Mainz (Germany), making time for a visit to nearby Speyer. Our final ride took us to Frankfurt, where the airport drew the line under our journey and returned us to Malta.

We are planners, Jason and me. I search for countries, places, and unusual experiences; he lays out the itinerary and logistics. It’s a balance we love — no group tours, no rigid timetables, just our way, our pace. We especially seek places that are not crowded with tourists, and it delights us when we discover we are the first Maltese faces someone has ever seen. In Speyer, a taxi driver of 30 years had never met a Maltese traveller, and in the astronomical observatory on Klet Mountain in the Czech Republic, our guide was fascinated by the sound of our language. Those moments confirmed what I had hoped: that I had chosen paths less travelled.

This journey, from 7 to 16 August 2025, was an experiment in lightness as well. For once, we carried only backpacks. I worried at first since I tend to carry extra things to ensure that I have everything I shall ever need, but this time, I took the risk and, in the end, I was proud of my own restraint. The constant movement gave the illusion of a longer holiday, rich with variety. Jason, freed from the strain of driving, could simply watch the world unfold beyond the windows. And I too, unburdened by the nervousness of navigating foreign roads (so different from Malta’s left-hand side), could settle into a book, or simply watch the fields, mountains and rivers slide by.

It was a journey of freedom, of rhythm, of discovery. And we loved it so much that already, we are sketching the first ideas for our next one.

Planning

When we first started planning a journey from Bologna to Mainz, the goal was simple: travel across Europe without the hassle. No car rentals, no airport rushes between stops — just us, the rails, and a rhythm that allowed us to move slowly and notice things.

We wanted to make the most of the train experience, to enjoy the journey rather than rush through it. That mindset shaped every decision we made — from the ticket we bought to how we packed our bags.

The Journey

We quickly realised that the key to a smooth trip was simplicity.

We chose an Interrail pass covering 10 travel days, which gave us the flexibility to move around freely while keeping our planning under control.

Our golden rule was: stay close to the station. Every accommodation we booked had to be within walking distance of the train — no taxis, no transfers. It was a small detail, but it made every arrival feel effortless.

Since we’d be moving frequently, we packed light — really light. Everything had to fit into one backpack and a small day bag. It felt liberating to carry so little and to know that we could hop on and off trains without a second thought.

Flights

To keep things neat, we made sure our flights aligned with our route.

We flew into Bologna and out of Frankfurt, a few minutes away by train from Mainz, so there was no need to circle back. That single decision gave the trip a natural flow — a beginning and an end connected by rails, landscapes, and quiet station platforms.

Trains

In total, we took 13 trains, covered 1,534 km, and spent around 24 hours in motion.

Originally, we flirted with the idea of sleeper trains — romantic in theory, but less so when you realise that the schedules don’t always work out. Many routes involved awkward night changes, and arrival times didn’t line up with check-ins.

So instead, we embraced early mornings. We’d catch the first train out, enjoy the quiet of the journey, and usually arrive just in time for check-in around midday. That rhythm worked perfectly — no rushing, no waiting around with our bags.

Each train ride had its own personality: the smooth efficiency of the Austrian routes, the quiet charm of smaller Czech lines, the sense of connection as we crossed borders without really noticing.

Accommodation

Booking places near train stations might not sound glamorous, but it was a game changer and a pleasant surprise as well. All accommodation was comfortable, convenient and you could not tell that you were staying close to the din and hum usually associated with train stations. After hours on the rails, being able to walk straight to your room is a small joy that makes a huge difference.

Packing

This trip was an exercise in learning how little we actually need.

We left behind the “just in case” items and focused on essentials. A few changes of clothes, comfortable shoes, and enough to feel ready without being weighed down.

Travelling light didn’t just make the logistics easier — it changed the way we moved. There’s a kind of freedom in knowing you can pack up and go in minutes.

Lessons Learnt

Even with all that planning, there were moments that reminded us that trains don’t reach everywhere.

Getting from Saal station to Weltenburg Abbey was a perfect example — no taxis, no Bolt, no easy way out. In hindsight, pre-booking a ride would have saved us a long, tiring detour.

We also learned that sometimes, renting a car for a day or two makes sense. From Bologna, we hired one to visit Ferrara, Comacchio, and Dozza — beautiful towns that would’ve been hard to reach otherwise.

And looking back, a car or ferry from Regensburg would’ve been cheaper and easier for certain legs of the journey. These moments weren’t failures, just gentle reminders that “no-hassle travel” sometimes means being flexible enough to change the plan.